The Return of Cariñena: Reclaiming Its Place on the Wine Map

The Cariñena variety, also known in Spain as Mazuelo (especially in Rioja) and in France as Carignan, originates from the autonomous community of Aragón. It takes its name from the town of Cariñena in the province of Zaragoza. Historically, this grape was valued for its high yields and deep color, but without proper management, it could yield rustic and harsh wines.

In the glass, a varietal Cariñena is easily recognized by its deep ruby color and pronounced acidity. The nose is dominated by dark berries—blackberry, plum, and wild cherry—complemented by notes of black pepper, liquorice, and forest floor. Powerful tannins provide a solid structure, giving the finest examples outstanding ageing potential.

In the mid-20th century, following the phylloxera epidemic, winemakers in France and Spain sought a variety capable of quickly restoring production volumes. The choice fell on Carignan due to its high yields and disease resistance. The variety was widely planted in Languedoc and the flatlands of Catalunya.

High yields led to a drop in quality. The wines were watery, with coarse tannins and excessively high acidity. The variety quickly gained a reputation as a workhorse grape suitable only for cheap table blends.

In the 1980s, a vine-pull scheme was launched to reduce surplus vineyards. The area under Cariñena shrank dramatically, making way for more popular international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.

The salvation of the variety came from vineyards that escaped destruction due to their inaccessible locations. On the steep slopes of the Priorat region, plantings of Cariñena aged 50 to 80+ years survived. Winemakers discovered that as the vine ages, its yield decreases naturally.

Old vines produce very small berries with a high concentration of dry extract. Wine made from such grapes loses its initial aggressiveness. Coarse tannins are replaced by a velvety texture, and the acidity becomes balanced.

These old plantings became the foundation for the winemaking renaissance in Priorat. The variety proved that with the right approach, it can yield complex, long-lived wines that rival the best examples of Tempranillo or Garnacha.

Today, Cariñena is prized for its ability to reflect terroir. On the licorella slate soils of Priorat, the wine acquires distinctive smoky and tarry notes. These nuances make its profile complex and highly recognizable.

Modern Spanish winemakers are increasingly moving away from using the variety solely as a blending component. Single-varietal releases are emerging, showcasing the full spectrum of dark berry and spice aromas.

The revival of Cariñena has influenced other regions as well. Winemakers in the neighboring Montsant comarca and the French Languedoc have also begun carefully restoring old vineyards, restoring the variety's well-deserved respect.